Tag Archives: mid-century furniture

10 Instagram Accounts Mid-Century Lovers Should Follow

danishmodernla

Believe it or not, a child conceived on the day I got my first smart phone still has not been born. That’s right, I’m the person who held out against the most ubiquitous invention of our time until the Year of Our Lord 2014. It’s not that I was trying to resist the inexorable tide of technology, or make a statement about consumerism, or be even just be a super cool hipster with a string/tin can telephone I brought everywhere and forced people to talk to me through. I waited so long to get a smart phone mostly because 1) I’m really very cheap, and 2) I didn’t necessarily think it would make my life any better.

Nine months later, I would say that my life post-smart phone is pretty much the same with one significant improvement: INSTAGRAM. I don’t have the Facebook app, and Twitter makes me feel 90 years old, but the access Instagram has given me to beautiful art, design, and furniture is kind of mind blowing.

Some of my favorite accounts are those of pickers and vintage shops around the country. If you, too, love to ogle mid-century furniture, here are ten accounts you don’t want to miss:

@danishmodernla
danishmodernla

The furniture is gorgeous enough, but the pictures from this LA shop makes SoCal look like the oasis I’ve always believed it is (except for that whole drought thing).

@homesteez
homesteez

“Steez” is apparently an adjective that means “style with ease,” so of course I instantly respect someone willing to play with language, even if Urban Dictionary is the source that recognizes this definition right now (it seems like a short jump from Urban Dictionary to the OED these days anyway). This San Diego picker with a recently opened shop has an interesting eye for composition in his shots and an industrial edge that I really dig.

@midcenturyfurniture
midcenturyfurniture

The personal account of one of the founders of Joybird furniture, which manufactures new mid-century styled pieces, midcenturyfurniture shares Joybird customer photos, classic mid-century designs, and inspiration photos, like the one pictured above.

@atableshop
a table shop

The photo captions from this account are all in Russian, so I have no idea who these people are or what they do, but they consistently share amazing interior spaces with exquisite furniture and overall design.

@midcenturymobler
midmobler

This San Francisco shop specializes in legit vintage Scandinavian pieces, so this is the REAL THING. They feature some of the most beautiful wood ever, and they supplied the secretary in Joan Holloway Harris’s Mad Men apartment . The piece of furniture that is–that sounded a little confusing, with Joan herself being a secretary and all, but you know what I mean.

@modernmanor
modernmanor

Modern Manor is a Phoenix-based mid-century furniture store that also offers home staging, so this account features great furniture as well as lots of ideas for styling mid-century pieces in your home.

@junksnotjunk
junksnotjunk

This Asbury Park, NJ store scores loads of great furniture (gimme that table!), decor, vintage cameras, and any other odd or end a collector could want.

@atomicfurnishing
atomicfurnishing

This shop in Asheville, NC features tons of great items, lots of which get new upholstery courtesy of account and store owner Megan. She is pretty darn good. The prices are also fantastic, so if I ever go back to Asheville, I’m going in a U-Haul.

@sharkgravy
sharkgravy

This Chicago shop uses the tried and true combination of classic pieces + simple but appealing styling + light, bright photography. Their posts alway make me happy! And of course a little bit jelly, too.

@retrorehapmpls
retrorehabmpls

This account of this Minneapolis shop is all about simple but dramatic photographs of exquisite furniture and lots of drool-worthy wood. The credenza pictured above is also the smaller version of the one in our living room, so I may be a little biased to these folks’ taste.

@sunbeam_vintage
sunbeamvintage

This LA shop consistently gets ALL the furniture; it’s hard to even imagine how there’s anything left over for anybody else. Plus they’ve got these amazing vines in what appears to be their alley, which is extremely wrong and unfair to all other alleys but makes a great backdrop for their pictures.

What are your favorite Instagram accounts? Tell me who else I should be following!

Upholstered! Mid-century Loveseat

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Back in August, I started reupholstering a yard sale loveseat I thought would be great for our small TV room._MG_7867

As it turns out, the process took a little longer than I thought, and we ended up getting a different couch for the space in the meantime. Things taking longer than I  expect is pretty much a constant theme of my upholstery projects, but at four months, the loveseat was still completed faster than these chairs, so I’m going to call that progress.

Here are a few pictures from the process.

Down to the springs.
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With the deck (upholstery term for the part of the couch underneath the cushion) padded and upholstered.IMG_3386

With the arms attached and back padding in progress.IMG_4434

Since this was my first couch, and I wasn’t really able to use the previous upholstery too much as a pattern for fear of rooting out more hidden brown recluses, there were many challenges and hours of re-work involved in this project. There were a few times when I wanted nothing more than to find the nearest dumpster and heave this sucker in. One of the hardest parts, though, was that I did all the work in my living room, and having a couch on sawhorses in the middle of your main living area is not a great way to operate for months at a time. This picture above is how I spent many evenings after work, and I think the off-center (but not side) ponytail and random bobby pin securing I-don’t-know-what pretty much say it all about my mental state.

I learned lots during the process that I’ll put to use on the next project–and there will be a next project, though I don’t know if I’ll take on another piece of this size until I can find somewhere to work that is not also where I’m supposed to eat dinner.

But for now, I’m proud to have completed this loveseat! It’s super cute, comfortable, and great for enjoying with furry friends.

Reupholstered mid-century loveseat IMG_5176

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Upholstered! 1964 Paoli Chair

There was snow on the ground when we found these three 1964 Paoli chairs at an estate sale last winter.
1964 Paoli chairs before reupholstery, found at an estate sale
Since then, they’ve spent a lot of time chilling out in the basement, waiting to get a little TLC. But for everything there is a season, and apparently summer is the season for Paoli chairs, because they are finally done!
 Reupholstered white mid century Paoli chairReupholstered blue or gray mid century Paoli chair
You can follow the upholstery process for chair three below.

Stripping

The process of stripping these Paoli chairs was far less dramatic and eventful than the loveseat, which was dangerous and, frankly, a little disgusting. I started with the chair upside down to get easier access to the staples.
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The good news is that all the staples were on the narrow underside of the seat back. Once those were removed, I detached the fabric and moved on to the seat.
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I must have seemed like I needed some assistance, because Jellybeans came out to supervise my efforts.
White dog helping me upholster
Boom! With the staples gone from the seat, the stripping process is done. QC came back to check the cushion density one last time, just to make sure it was good for sitting and all.
IMG_3229 IMG_3231

Sewing the Seat Cushion Cover

You’ll have to excuse me if some of this seems like one of those cooking shows where the host suddenly pulls the finished dish out of the oven. Since this was the third of these chairs I did and the second in the same fabric, I had already cut my material to size. However, I do promise to cover measuring for yardage, pattern making, and cutting fabric in future posts.

The seat cushion cover consists of two parts: the seat and the boxing. The original chair also had piping, but I opted to go sans piping for this time because I wanted a clean, modern look and  thought a simple cover accomplished that better. I did use piping on the first chair, and that looked great, too.

With the seat and boxing fabric already cut, the first step was to trace the outline of the seat cushion onto the seat fabric. On the first chair, I did a truly embarrassing amount of seam ripping before finally accepting that this cushion is an irregular shape, and eyeballing it while you sew is not an especially effective way of getting that shape right.

This time I broke out the chalk pencil to make sure my seam placement was exact. It’s okay to draw on the correct side of the fabric–the side that will be showing on the final product. A lot of the chalk line will not show after you have sewn, and what does show can be patted out with a damp cloth. I made the curve of the cushion my boundary, marking for my seam where the cushion began to slope downward. This cushion had a little bit of edge there, which made the process pretty easy.
Measuring fabric for a seat cushion
Next, I brought out the boxing (two pieces, already sewn together). I wanted to place the side seams of the boxing near where the back leg of the chair meets the seat so that they would be less visible. This is also the way the previous seat was assembled, so it’s not as if I had to think of that genius strategy on my own.

I laid out the boxing so that the seams met the seat and the same place on both sides. Then, I made a horizontal marking on the seat fabric to indicate where the boxing seam should go.
Fitting boxing for a seat cushion Marking a seat cushion to be sewed
Before sewing, I pinned the boxing to the seat fabric.
Pinning boxing to a seat cushion before sewing
When pining, I made sure to do the following three things:

  1. Arrange the top side of the seat fabric and the boxing so they are facing each other (ie–the seat fabric is facing up, and the boxing is facing down), and the boxing is inside the seat cushion. That way, when I folded the boxing back over, it was underneath the seat and ready to cover the bottom of the cushion.
  2. Begin by pinning the BOTH boxing seams on the horizontal markings I just made. If you start with just one, there is no guarantee you will distribute the fabric exactly as needed for the other one to line up.
  3. Pin on top of the yellow line drawn on the seat fabric. It wasn’t visible once I added the boxing, so the pins became my guide when sewing, like so:

Sewing boxing for a seat cushion

Upholstering the Seat Cushion

Then I covered the whole seat with a half layer of dacron and stapled it to the bottom, just to even out the cushion and freshen the padding a little bit. I also noticed on the other chairs that there could be a slight bulge where the seat cushion met the plywood bottom, so I put an extra strip of dacron across the front to smooth out that area. At this point, my cushion looked like this:
Covering a cushion in dacron
Now I was ready to add the seat cushion cover. It fit pretty tightly, which I just what I wanted. I smoothed as I went, making sure the seams were where I wanted them, and the grain of the fabric was straight.

After flipping the cushion over, I pulled the boxing down and secured it to the bottom. The top and bottom of a piece should always be stapled before you move to the sides. I checked the front periodically to make sure I was pulling evenly and not getting my seam out of alignment. When completely stapled, the bottom looked like this:
IMG_3274
To complete the seat, I added a piece of cambric, which is a fancy word for the black dust cover that’s always hanging off the bottom of old sofas. Strictly speaking, this is optional, since cambric doesn’t really do anything functional. It does, however, make the whole job look more finished and keeps strings from the raw edge of your fabric and bits of dacron from being visible. Attaching cambric is about the easiest part of the entire project. Just cut it to shape and staple around the outside. It’s nice to fold the edge of the cambric under before stapling, but it won’t unravel, so if there isn’t enough fabric to fold, no one will be the wiser.
Applying cambric or a dust cover to the bottom of furniture

Upholstering the Seat Back

I try to reuse the original materials from furniture whenever possible. It’s greener and easier on the wallet. The cotton batting from this chair was in fine condition, so back on it went. To add extra padding and a smooth finished surface, I added a layer of dacron over the batting and stapled it to the back.
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First, I upholstered the front side of the seat back by draping the fabric over the front and securing it on the back top and underneath the bottom of the seat. As with the seat cushion, I smoothed and stapled the top and bottom of the fabric before doing anything with the side, like this:
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When I had stapled the back top and bottom all the way across, I needed to make a release cut. This small split in the fabric where the arm meets the back enabled fabric to be wrapped around the arm
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After making release cuts on both sides, I finished stapling the top and bottom of the back. When I came to the arms, I folded the extra fabric from the cut underneath before stapling. The front and back then looked like this:
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Now I was ready to move to the seat back and was kind of almost done. I positioned the top of the fabric at the top of the seat back and draped the rest backwards over the seat front. I stapled across the top to secure, then added a piece of cardboard tack strip and stapled again in the same manner. This ensures a straight, clean edge on the back of the chair.
IMG_3266 IMG_3267
I added a half sheet of dacron to cover over where the tack strip was applied and smooth out the whole surface. Then, I flipped the back fabric down and stapled it to the underside of the seat back. I folded the fabric under as I stapled so that no raw edges were exposed. With the bottom completed, only the sides were still loose.
IMG_3269 IMG_3271
The sides of this back were finished with a nail head trim. To apply nail head, all I needed was nail head (of course) and a mallet to whack the tacks with. Some of the original tacks bent when I removed them, so I had to get new ones to finish this chair. At $1.50 for 24, they were a minor expense.
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And voila!
Nail head trim on the back of a chair
To be honest, I forgot to take a picture when I first attached the nail head, which is why the above pic is not a sketchy basement pic like the rest AND already has cording where the seat back meets the arm. Oops! That’s a teaser for you as we head into the LAST STEP(s).

Sewing Double Welt Cording

Double welt cording is good for finishing areas of furniture where wood meets upholstery. When sewn, the raw edge of the fabric hides on the bottom of the cording, and it can be attached with staples. Back at the sewing machine, I cut a small piece of fabric and two short pieces of 5/32″ cording.

5/32" cording IMG_3282
You can get a cording foot or a double cording foot for your sewing machine, but I don’t have either yet, so I used the zipper foot that came with my machine. I attached it on the left side and moved the needle to the left position so it could get as close as possible to the cording.
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I folded fabric over the first piece of cording and sewed, then arranged the second piece right next to it and folded over again.This time, the seam needed to be placed in between the two pieces of cording. This is where the zipper foot isn’t totally adequate to the project. The cording is too thick for the presser foot to be lowered, but if the presser foot is left up, the threads on the back side can get pretty messy. When only dealing with small pieces like this, I prefer to hand sew. On the finished cording, notice I made the fabric about a 1/2″ longer than the cording. This makes it much easier to staple.
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I positioned the cording on the joint of the arm, stapled, and that’s a wrap (no pun intended). The last chair could finally be joined up with its twin.

Gray mid century Paoli chairs, reupholstered
As much as I enjoyed working on these chairs, I am excited to get them the heck out of my basement. They need to move on to forever homes where they can be displayed and loved, as the furniture gods intended.

Room Tour: Living/Dining Room

Before:
For whatever reason, we only took one before picture of our living room area:Green living room before updates
My guess is that compared to some of the other weird things going on around the house, there didn’t seem like a whole lot to see here. Just your basic grass green walls with gold sponge painting (it’s hard to see in the photo, but trust me–it was there). Then, of course, the table lamp in the middle of the floor completes the look. The only oddity in the room was a built-on shelf in the corner behind the front door, which you can see a little bit in this photo:
Arched door way in a bungalow
These were in several rooms, and we called them built-ons rather than built-ins for the simple reason that they were just kind of hanging off the walls.

Updates:
The biggest change we made in this room was to add a pass-through to the kitchen. This really helps the space feel larger and brighter.
Kitchen pass through, stainless steel pendant light
Justin and his dad installed the pass-through (un-installed the wall?) in one of those quintessential men-bonding-with-powertools kind of situations. Our walls are plaster, which means the demo was a two-step process involving 1) knocking out the plaster and 2) cutting through the lath, a set of narrow wooden strips nailed horizontally behind the plaster. There was lots of dust and a few shallow flesh wounds, but in the end they did a great job, and the pass-through is one of my favorite changes in the whole house.

Other changes consisted of tearing down the built-on, painting the walls, sanding and painting all the trim, cutting out and patching bubbles in the plaster, and installing a new stainless steel pendant light over the dining area. All throughout this process, we failed to take a single picture. I recall a conversation taking place a few times that went something like:

“Wow, you should really be taking pictures of this.”
“Yeah, I know.”

And here we are today.

After + Furniture:

Green living room with platform couch, Noguchi style table
A white dog adds a touch of elegance to any room.
Green living room with platform couch, Noguchi style table, Buckstaff chairs

1960s platform couch reupholstered in brown tweed
1960s platform couch (reupholstered) – Craigslist
Red velvet mid century Buckstaff chairs, Noguchi style table, Broyhill Brasilia commode side table
Vintage Buckstaff chairs – yard sale
Broyhill Brasilia side table/commode – flea market
Reproduction Noguchi coffee table – Craigslist
Vintage rug – yard sale
Mid century credenza
1965 credenza – Craigslist
Bookcase – Ikea
Mid century chrome and glass dining table, stainless steel pendant light
Vintage glass and chrome dining table – flea market
Rug (not vintage but still fabulous) – yard sale
1964 RCA Victrola Record Player Console
1964 RCA Victrola stereo/record console (it works!) – yard sale
We actually found an advertisement from a March 1965 Minnesota newspaper showing what this particular console went for back in the day:
victrola_ad

Planned updates:

No large-scale plans for the living room area. Until recently, I’d been on a mad hunt for a new set of rugs (the rug now in our bedroom was previously in front of the couch), but that ended about three weeks ago when I found both rugs pictured at the same yard sale. Now, my main goal is to finally get some stuff up on the walls. That, and throw more parties.

Stripped! Mid-Century Loveseat

As a teenager, I hate hate hated science and especially dreaded dissection day in biology class. But when it comes to furniture, I kind of enjoy ripping stuff open and digging around in its guts.

Even so, this mid-century loveseat was hiding a few surprises I definitely was not expecting.

Purple mid-century loveseat rescued from a yard sale

We found the loveseat at a garage sale. We’d been looking for a small couch for our TV room, but most loveseats we found were either too large and overstuffed or outside our price range. I loved this one for its classic lines and small size. But, the host of the garage sale wasn’t sure she could let it go, so we left our phone number and asked her to give us a call if she changed her mind. And bingo–we got the call that very evening to pick up the loveseat AND a matching pair of mid-century chairs. Victory!

The woman who sold us the couch told us it had been living in her garage, but sometimes the thrill of the find temporarily suspends my powers of reasoning, so it didn’t really penetrate what conditions it had been subject to or what might have had access to it.

Soon after we got the couch home, Justin tore the dust cover off the bottom to find this:

Snake skin found inside loveseat

THAT IS A SNAKESKIN, PEOPLE.

And that was just the beginning. Also in the process of stripping this couch, I found a more than generous amount of mouse poop, and no fewer than 7 LIVE brown recluses + a few additional dead ones. For a while I was pretty sure I had also found some snake eggs, but they turned out to be acorns (hence the poop):

Mouse poop and eaten acorn found in furniture batting

Let’s just say I was extremely relieved when the couch was down to the frame and I could finally be fairly sure nothing else poisonous was going to crawl out of it.

Now, on to the actual stripping! Have you ever stopped to consider what’s keeping the cover on your couch? Before I started working on furniture, I really never had. But now I can tell you–it’s staples. Lots of them. For this particular couch, about this many of them:

Staples removed from a loveseat during reupholstery

AND you have to remove them all pretty much by hand, so stripping upholstered furniture is a labor intensive process that can be quite time consuming.

Here are the tools and supplies I used:

Tools for stripping furniture: pliers, staple remover, gloves, dust mask

1. Staple remover – This grabs and pries out the staples. If you don’t have a staple remover, you can use a small flat head screwdriver, but be very careful. Prying out stuck staples sometimes takes a lot of force, and if your tool loses purchase on the staple, the screwdriver can come back flying toward your eyeball. I speak from experience here and feel very lucky to be typing this still with two good eyes.

2. Pliers – Removes staples after you have pried them up with the staple remover.

3. Leather gloves – Protects your hands from scrapes and cuts. These are really important. Especially if you’re working on older furniture, staples can break in half, leaving them hidden in fabric or padding. On one of my first projects, I was pretty sure I was going to have to get a tetanus shot after I got a splinter from a shard of rusty staple (figured out later that my last shot was still good–whew!).

4. Dust mask or particulate respirator – Keeps your lungs feeling good. Ripping furniture and digging out padding releases tons of dust, fibers, and other unknown stuff that you don’t really want to inhale. I hadn’t thought about this too much until I talked to a retiring upholsterer who said he had developed respiratory problems from years of exposure to dust and the chemicals in fabrics. Now I play it safe.

5. Goggles – Like a dust mask for your eyes! All that floating stuff you block out of your nose and mouth can still make it up to your eyeballs, and it can be ridiculously painful. Again, play it safe.

When you start removing fabric, you want to work in the reverse order from how it was attached. That’s why you’ll notice I begin with the back of the couch and work my way forward.

Day 1:

Stripped couch or sofa

Day 2:

Stripped couch or sofa

Day 3:

Couch or sofa stripped to the springs

Couch or sofa stripped to the springs

Couch or sofa stripped to the springs

Now comes the fun part! This little lady is free of creepy-crawlies and ready for some new threads.